Iran Part 2 - lovely people, lovely landscape!

 

In the first part we reported that we had been surprised by a snowstorm in the middle of the desert, got ill and that we were running out of food because of crappy maps (read here). The next morning we solved these problems – or we should say miners solved it: They invited us to warm up inside and supplied us with tea and lunch. They also had a look to our map – and told us it is really bad, same for both navigation apps. To make sure we don’t get lost, they quickly sketch the most accurate map of the area on a small piece of paper. In fact, at the mine the gravel road ends and we pedal on a paved road to a village nearby. There we filled our stocks and could fully enjoy the landscape on our way to Yazd with springlike temperatures. We put away one piece after another of our warm cloths.

 

 

Yazd – one of the oldest irani cities now has 700 000 inhabitants and a huge old city center. We stayed in a hotel for 2 nights to explore the city, visit the water museum, the basar and get Christian a new summer haircut at the barber. He still worked with his 25 year old scissors “made in Germany”.

 

 

On our way further south via Mehriz, Marvat and Hera the landsape slowly changes, the landscape changes slowly. First we spot some single trees, then pistachio farms and finally the first palmtrees. In Marvast we meet a local reporter and of course answer all his questions. We had lots of fun doing so.

 

 

The people here are enourmously hospitable, they invite us home and offer to take us somewhere by car. No day passes without getting gifts. In Herat we got an invitation by Alis family. We met some days before on the road. For dinner the whole family gathers together, the bell rings all the time because more and more guests arrive. WE really enjoy being here. On the next day we do a day trip together with Pooyan in his car to old castles and the water sources in the mountains. Afterwards we enjoy a delicious dinner together with him and his parents. We are overwhelmed and can hardly express how grateful we are. When Iranis talk abaot Germany or Europe, they are always extremely positive and full of respect.

 

 

When choosing our route we try to go on small or gravel roads as much as possible – the landscape definitely is worth the extra effort. On one on the ascents we get invited for lunch on the side of the road. Strangers simy order food form the next village and their brother takes it to us. The waiting time goes quickly with campfire, shisha and another farsi lesson. After going on uphill one car passes by just to stop on top to prepare a small picknick with tea, cake and cookies. We don’t accept their invitation to stay at their home 200 km away, although they are very positive they can fit us and our bikes in their tiny car which is already overloaded with 6 passengers. All these experiences ensure Iran is always going to have a special place in our hearts.

 

 

Our destination is Bandar Abbas in the south of Iran. Having cycled all the time on a plateau at around 1000m we look forward to a go downhill towards the sea. However before we have to climb up again. On top fate surprises us with a tunnel and a guard in front of it. We have to admit that traffic looks scary with a huge amount of trucks and the paved shoulder ends at the tunnel. The guard explains with his hands and feet and theathralic gestures that we will die if we go on. Hmmm, what now? We suggest to hitchhike on a truck to be safe of the traffic. He denies and shows us that someone is going to kill us, dig a huge hole and throw our bodies in, so that nobody finds us. We consider that a bit exaggerated as we had only positive experiences so far and we shared the road with the truckers for some hundred kilometres anyway. Luckily one of his colleagues joined us and showed us the international well known sign for “that guy is crazy”, we should just take our bikes and leave. Relieved, we had been discussing for more than an hour already, we jump on our bikes and head towards the tunnel. Our initial concern about the traffic turns out innecessary as the first car slows down behind us, turns on his hazard warning lights and escorts us all the way through that tunnel. Now we can rush downhill.

 

 

In Bandar Abbas we buy our ferry tickets to Dubai (Sharjah) and decided to use the remaining time to visit the island Hormuz, as that tiny island gave its name to the “street of Hormuz”, which we have to cross later on. Portuguese occupied the island and installed an important harbour there – but soon left because of the climate. In our guidebook we read “there is a street around the island, but there is nothing significant to see” – so we arrived without expectations and get really surprised... Read on in the third part here.

 

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