Kyrgyzstan 2 - Stunning mountain lakes, visits and hospital...

 

A close view on the map promises almost no flat kilometer for the next 350 km, the whole way will be uphill and downhill. We have to climb 3 times to more than 3000m above sea level, just to roll down below 1500 again. For the last pass we climb 1600m to a total of 3400m above sea level at our next destination, the Sonkul lake. There are almost no villages during the whole way, but lots of fresh water springs. The first cyclist we meet destroys our hope for a paved road, it is only gravel in different qualities. We cannot exactly say we look forward to this, but as usual on the worst roads the nature rewards the effort.

 

 

We cannot get enough of the views of glaciers, serpentine roads and mountain peaks – over which we quite often spot eagles flying circles. In Kazarman we decide to rest in a guesthouse, and are very surprised by the high quality and the busy atmosphere. Kirigistan definitely got used to tourism and displays great offers such as cosy homestays and guesthouses instead of big hotels. Thus the stunning landscape remains intact and people stick to their traditional way of life. Among the best examples is Songkul lake, a true tourist magnet. Even during peak season all guest find a place in one of the yurt camps, that perfectly fit in the landscape. We cycle around the whole lake to enjoy the view also during nighttime, afterwards we speed the way back down. On the way we meet quite a lot of other cyclists and stop a lot to chat. Most interesting for us: Those coming from China. Unfortunately we receive many contradicting information, so we remain curious to check ourselves.

 

 

Quickly we reach Issykul lake, which almost gives us the impression of an ocean: 180 km long, 60 km broad and 700m deep. It is completely surrounded by high mountains, but often we cannot really spot the opposite shore. At this lake we have a date with Ina an Torsten from Germany, but plenty of time left until they arrive. It is a great place for some detours, as there are almost as many sights arount the lake as mosquitos. We visit salt lake,  dead sea feeling in Kyrgyzstan, and Fairy Tale Canyon.

 

 

Seabrigde organized a nice camp spot for their costumers, here we finally meet Torsten and Ina. We enjoy two days together: Barbecue, a trip to the mountains, swimming and Standup paddeling on the lake, talking, … It is interesting to experience another way to travel, somewhat more luxurios than with bicycles and a tent. While at least Moni sometimes was jealous of guys with campervans or motorbikes as they have more possibilities for detours than we do, an organized tour isn't our kind of thing, not only financially. The time passes quickly, Monis health as well. When it is time to leave, she is only up to otwo things: sleep or run to the only toilet of the campsite.

 

 

So we wait another day before we slowly start to make our way to the next city, which is only 85 km away. This takes us 3 days and as Moni did not get well in the meantime we decide to see a doctor – a family member of the guesthouse we stay in. He recommends to go to the hospital and takes us there. Saline infusion and intravenous antibiotics almost immediately help and we got an interesting insight in the kyrgyz medical system, which surprises us: We don’t need prescriptions for the medication but can buy them in the pharmacies – and it is very cheap. A five day package of antibiotics costs less than 40 cents. The treatment in the hospital is free of charge, still there are not too many patients. In the evening the doctor comes to see Moni, with a big portion of spaghetti with lamb. He says that’s exactly the right food. We smile, enjoy the food with just a slight bad conscience. Only two days later we are back on our bikes, heading towards the Kazakh border.

 

 

Now we are curious to get to China and would love to be there already. Only 300km in Kazakhstan left to go… Having cycled that stretch, we would love to stay even longer. Why? Read our next blog.

 

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