I start into those 10 days alone with very mixed feelings. I am excited and curious as it will be a new experience. After spending almost every second together during the past 9 month I miss Christian a lot. And I have to admit I am a bit scared as well.
The first afternoon I cycle all the 80km to the Sawadi Islands, tailwind is fun and am happy to stay the night on a populated, safe camp site. The next morning starts with a breakfast invitation by a british-omani family who is travelling around the world as well. Next stop Japan, wow! They also provide me with food for the next day and I happily start into my second day alone. This doesn’t go that ideal, headwinds are picking up and a young guy thinks it’s funny to grap at my ass while crossing the street... When it gets time to look for a campsite, no place seems lonely enough. Moreover a elderly man on a motorbike started to follow me. Unfortunately he only spoke Arabic, so communication was difficult. When he was still behind me an hour later and the sun was about to set, I needed a solution. I asked several people whether they could translate or I could camp in their garden and was surprised I got rejected 4 times. Only the fifth person wanted or could translate – and I learned the motorbiker considered my rear lights not bright enough and wanted to make sure, I wasn’t hit by a car. I really like to believe he was saying the truth and had no idea how scary he was to me, no matter how good his intentions might have been.
The next morning I decided to cycle to a camping site close to Sohar – although it was relatively far away, a nice and safe place is definitely worth some extra daily kilometres. Additionally I organize a warmshowers host for the night after in Shinas at Hameds family. My visum expires the night after, so I can stay only one night. However I feel so welcome and comfortable I risk to overstay and the fine it might provoke. An excellent decision, not only does it reduce the nights alone outside and give me some time to rest, more important I get to know my hosts a bit better and the omani life. If I could I would stay a couple of weeks. Nevertheless I start very early the next morning, maily to enjoy breakfast together with my hosts. Moreover I want to cycle as much as possible before it gets to hot and the headwind gets to strong. So I happily accept Khalids offer to take me to the border my car.
The border crossing goes smoothly on the omani side, I don’t even have to pay the expected fine. In contrast the immigration a bad surprise. I have to unpack everything and notice, that I carry our emergency medicals. I packed them back in Germany when I was completely stressed out, so I simply brought everything, that seemed worth it. Among it one single pill Tramadol – which are banned here. While 8 soldiers discuss my fate, the remaining two costum officials are absolutely amazed by my tour. They offer me coffee, tea, water, cereal bars and even breakfast... If I had not tried to google the potential trouble I got myself into, I would have truly enjoyed that stop at the border. Luckily I was allowed to cycle on after about 80 minutes.
Unnecessary to mention I now missed the cold time without too much wind. I quickly exchange the remaining Rials, buy enough water and food for my way across the mountains. It doesn’t take long until my eyes burn like hell because of sweat dripping down my head and the headwind blowing dust in my face. I have to go very slow, either I pedal extra serpentines using all 2 lanes of the serpentine road or I push my bike in the same manner. Despite all that I cannot stop to smile like crazy. Why is that? Well, after less than 5 minutes, the first car stopped next to me. The couple gives me water, protein bars and even offers to take me all the way to Dubai where I could stay home. They don’t leave before I promise to give them a call when I arrive and come visit then. Only a bit later, a bangladeshi streetworker helped me push my bike up a steep part. Within only 3 hours I count 4 offers to take me uphill, 3 invitations for the night, 2 parcels of cookies, 1 delicious sandwich and 8 bottles of cold water – very often even frozen. I only use my own, almost boilding water to soak my Hijab and cool my head with it. After so many lovely experiences my faith in the people here is fully restored. I guess the highest risk is to get fat or end up with a seriously overweight bike. I even enjoy being alone for the last 2 nights and sleep very well. Two days later, Armin, a fellow cyclist will arrive from Iran and we cycle the remaining days together around Dubai.
After these 8 days alone I even more respect all female solo cyclists. Even if I did enjoy cycling the more remote areas around here, it is not really my piece of cake and I am very happy I usually have the perfect person with me.
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